relaxed modern american cuisine

Fluke in the News

Food is the Focus in Fluke’s Ever-Changing Menu

The Newport Daily News | July 13, 2009 | Midge Knerr, Beyond The Line

New head chef Neil Manacle hails from New York, where he served as executive chef at the famed Mesa Grill, Bolo and Bar Americain

Jacqueline Marque | Daily News Staff

New head chef Neil Manacle hails from New York, where he served as executive chef at the famed Mesa Grill, Bolo and Bar Americain.

Restaurateurs Geremie and Jeff Callaghan have done a remarkable job of making Fluke on Bowen’s Wharf in Newport into a signature restaurant. With their concept of small plates and large plates to share, have a quick bite or a decadent dinner, and fabulous cocktails designed by Jerri Banks, it fast is becoming a favorite of locals and returning summer guests, along with folks who have just heard the “word.”

And the “word” has a new meaning as a new chef, Neil Manacle, has taken over the kitchen in the past month. Manacle worked as a chef in Manhattan for almost 20 years as executive chef at the famed Mesa Grill, Bolo and Bar Americain, to name a few.

Interested in cooking from a young age after a few other jobs, he went to Johnson & Wales in Providence, so he knows the area well.

But after more than 20 years, as Manacle put it, “I was done with New York.” He posted his resume online and Jeff Callaghan remembered the name. When they corresponded, Callaghan reminded Manacle that he had sold wine to him at one of the New York restaurants.

Manacle came for a visit, liked the direction the Callaghans were taking and after discussion of duties, decided to say “yes” and move to Newport.

During a recent dinner, three of us we were joyfully overwhelmed with luscious treasures on the small plates to share and experience. The menu changes daily, dependent on what’s in the house — Manacle’s favorite part of being a chef in Newport: “They bring freshly caught fish to your door or call you from out at sea,” he said. “You can’t get much fresher than that.”

We had Seared Scallops with Watermelon Salad, a combination that went well with the Roederer Champagne that Callaghan poured as we tried the dishes he felt were the best example of what Manacle had brought to Fluke.

My personal favorite was the Lobster Avocado Salad. The taste and textures of the sweet and ocean fresh lobster combined with the delicately chopped avocado, accompanied with a “painted” brush stroke on the plate — all the presentation rage these days — featuring a Blistered Jalapeno Vinaigrette that had just the kick it needed.

Grilled Shrimp with perfectly cooked white beans with citrus and herbs had forks and spoons everywhere. And the Jonah Crab cakes had great texture — creamy soft on the inside with a crust from pan-searing, served with a tangy Roasted Red Pepper Aioli.

Ten tempting entrée choices were difficult to narrow down. One of my friends had the Shellfish Pan Roast, an assortment of “fruit de mer” (fruits of the sea in French), with grilled garlic bread, classically prepared. My other friend had the Prime-Aged Ribeye served with Haricot Vert and roasted fingerling potatoes. A meat-and-potatoes guy, he was extremely happy.

And I ordered Steak Frites; — I heard the steak served was Hanger Steak with the hand-cut fries. It was the best I have had — full of flavor with a chew to the meat that is still tender, unlike any other steak I’d had before — and the fries were fabulous!

Desserts appeared and we tried all three: A lavender-scented creme brulee, with just a hint of the herb, not overpowering the delicate custard and crunchy burnt sugar top; a Blueberry Shortcake served with Creme Fraiche, light and loaded with berries and a Deep Dish Peach Cobbler, both using fruits of the season for a fine finale to an extravagant dinner.

The food was flawlessly executed and the presentation was exquisite, but not pretentious. The focus was the food — flavorful and bold, but with light touches of citrus and fresh herbs.

As I sat down with the easygoing Chef Manacle for a few questions a few days later, the meal was still vivid. It was a treat to chat with this amiable man who knew the Manhattan scene I was part of so many years ago — if it hadn’t been noon, perhaps we would have had a glass of wine or cold beer as we talked.

Q&A with Chef Neil Manacle

How would you define your cooking style?

I like to use big bold flavors, after living in Brooklyn with so many ethnic restaurants, especially Middle Eastern, Moroccan and Mediterranean.

Do you keep it local?

Whenever I can — Jeff and Geremie bring me fresh mint; Jeff’s mother brings me fresh eggs and lavender. And then there is the freshest lobster — I love it! I can’t wait for tomatoes and corn in late July and August. I look forward to cooking comfort food in the winter.

Who were your mentors?

Graham Kerr, “the Galloping Gourmet,” Julia Child and Jacques Pepin. (We both agreed Pepin’s first book, “La Technique,” was the best for practical use in a kitchen.)

What cooking utensil could you not live without?

My microplane — I love citrus flavors and it takes just the right amount of peel off the fruits.

What is your favorite late-night snack?

Definitely pizza.

What does being a chef at Fluke mean to you?

The Callaghans work so hard and stay positive. I try to be as “hands on” as possible. Come and enjoy yourself at Fluke and feel the warmth of the owners. My goal is to keep them proud successful owners.

It’s a Fluke

On Monday nights in August, there will be two sets of jazz presented by Louis Roederer Champagne at 7 and 11. Starting this Sunday, Fluke will be open for brunch from noon-3 p.m.— a special menu with unique cocktails to enliven your day.

Midge Knerr, a former executive chef in Newport and New York, is a Daily News columnist. Send her e-mail at midgelknerr@aol.com.