relaxed modern american cuisine

Fluke in the News

Roasted Duck Breast served with Asparagus, Mushrooms
and Truffled Mashed Potatoes

Comfort Food Given Savory Flavor at Fluke

The Newport Daily News | August 27, 2007 | Midge Knerr, Beyond the Line

On the Saturday night of Newport Jazz Festival weekend — and my friend’s birthday — the choice for dinner was the 6-week-old Fluke Wine Bar and Kitchen, located over the Wharf Pub on Bowen’s Wharf. This new “hot spot” focused on “relaxed modern cuisine,” but that night it was rocking. We knew we were fortunate to get a table and parking space near the wharf.

Jeff Callahan along with his wife, Geremie, are the owners, and they greeted us with a glass of sparkling rose from Anderson Valley — perfect for a birthday — and so good, we ordered a bottle for the six of us.

I have known Jeff for years, as he worked at the Black Pearl when I did some 18 years ago. He is passionate about wine, having spent the past 15 years representing the best wines from Europe and America. His brother John recently bought Bellevue Wine and Spirits — both of them are enjoying “turning people on to artisan wines,” whether in the restaurant or the store.

The main-floor dining room is attractively colored in a powdered nutmeg hue, with matching tablecloths and vases shaped like wine decanters filled with beach reeds and greens. A touch minimalist, this style helps to focus on the food.

The dinner we had that evening was so wonderful, I pondered how Chef Martin Butler could top it. As we shared delicious fried calamari, steamed little necks and seared foie gras with poached pear and strawberry balsamic glaze, it was the entree I was looking forward to.

Unless you have steamed lobsters yourself, I can tell you it takes synchronized timing to cook it perfectly. Mine was tender and full-flavored — I didn’t even need butter or lemon. Served with “marque-choux” — a stir fry — and roasted potatoes, it was spot on.

The menu is divided into “snacks,” “cheese & charcuterie,” “sandwiches,” “small plates” and finally “large plates.” This gives the diner many options — especially if one has had a large lunch and wants to graze over a few small plates with a glass of wine for a light supper.

We all ordered so many different things it was a delight to try so much. The menu changes often as to what is fresh for the day — hence no specials as the menu itself is special.

That evening, the buzz in the restaurant was that Branford Marsalis was dining upstairs and possibly performing after his dinner. Callahan invited us to come up and enjoy the music, but it was late and I had an early morning. I could hear the music from the street on the way to the car and I realized I was missing something special.

But more than that, I wondered about the connection between the restaurant and this legendary jazz man. On my return the following week with a friend, I got my answer. Butler had been a jazz musician and only took up cooking when his father was ill and Butler could no longer be on the road.

For my second dining experience, we sat upstairs — in what I think should be called the Branford Marsalis Bar, as he had christened the restaurant that past weekend. Smaller tables and a banquet make this seating more intimate — along with a sizable bar.

With a panoramic view of the harbor — ideal for people watching — we ordered. My friend tried one of the signature cocktails — the Sun Potion — made from Ketel One Citron, lemon verbena, Limoncello and fresh lemon juice. From what I could see, it went down smoothly; I couldn’t resist the sparkling rose by the glass.

We ordered a small plate each and two large plates. Four small plates — chicken chimchurri with yogurt mint sauce (as delicious as it sounds), spicy shrimp, citrus lobster salad sliders and potato and chourico croquettes left us dazzled. We actually shared with a table next to us!

Our large plates included soy- and ginger-glazed swordfish, crabcakes, native striped bass and roasted poussin with lentils. My friend had not had lunch that day so he was a big help polishing off the multi-flavored dishes.

Butler came out to check our progress. We gave him our compliments and asked a few questions about his food. He described his food “comfort laden with savory flavors.” Being from Baltimore, there is a Southern flair to his cuisine and as he opened the Tapas Teatro to four-star reviews in 2001, his signature dishes are beginning to emerge.

Opening in the height of season is tricky and all admitted there were some challenges in the beginning. Now things are running smoothly and Butler said he is looking forward to fall and a menu that is “going to be changing — every menu has its staples, but we want to keep it fresh.”

I have always thought of this analogy when it comes to learning to cook: You have to learn the classics before you can play jazz. This certainly applies here, and Chef Butler is just beginning to jam!

Midge Knerr, a former executive chef in Newport and New York, is a Daily News columnist. Send her e-mail at midgelknerr@aol.com.